Land of FIre & Ice

Somewhere in the North Atlantic lies a 103,000 sq km island known as Iceland. Despite the name, only 10-15% of the country is covered by ice of which the majority is by Vatnajökull reputedly the world´s 3rd largest icecap after Antarctica and Greenland. However, this is also a country of geothermally active hot spots, of geysers, hot springs, volcanos and lava flows. Then theres the highlands, river valleys, farmland and harbours. Despite this I think the most appropriate name would be Icy_Cold_Wind_&_Rainland!!! It might give a hint to the predominant weather conditions during my visit

Iceland has a population of approx 320,000 of which more than a third live in Reykjavik City and nearly two-thirds live in the Greater Reykjavik area. It was here in Reykjavik where I began my adventure...

On arrival in Reykjavik on a drizzly Sunday afternoon, there was a somewhat desolate-looking drive to the city. Once there and settled into the hotel, Peggy (who I´d met on the flight - and turned out to be a few doors up on the same floor of the same hotel!) and I walked down to the Nautholsvik geothermal beach. The beach was a nice sandy yellow, but the geothermal bit, the small constructed area of beach fed by a hot spring, was on winter hours and closed. We used the complimentary shuttle bus into town to try out the locally recommended "Cafe Paris" for the meat dish of the day, roast pork.

My first full day there started with a walk up Öskjuhlid Hill to the Perlan. Here 6 big thermal tanks hold the 4 million litres of thermal water for the city. On top of these is a big glass dome holding a gourmet restaurant and a cafeteria. It was in the latter I sampled Pönnukökur, a stuffed savoury pancake. V filling. The Perlan also has an artifial geyser that spouts every 4-5 minutes. In the afternoon I enjoyed a highlight of the main attractions of Reykjavik on a "Grand Excursion" including the tallest building Hallgrimur´s Church, the Old Town, Harbour and National Museum. The evening meal was Fish Meal of the Day at Cafe Paris again. This was Plokkfiskur - a traditional icelandic fish pie.

Tueday was the trip to the Golden Circle. First stop was the Hellisheidi Power Plant where electricity is produced from geothermal energy for Reykjavik. Then it was onto Gulfoss (The Golden Waterfall), a double waterfall that cascades 11m and 21m respectively into a steep sided canyon kicking up a huge amount of spray in the process. On a nice day you can apparently see a rainbow in the spray, but that´s on a nice day. It was very cold and very wet so I didn´t benefit from the full wonder of the occasion.

Geyser Geothermal Field was our lunchstop. Featuring the now inactive "Great Geyser" Geysir and its faithfully spouting buddy Strokkur which spouted and soaked an already wet me! At least the water was warm! I sampled a traditional icelandic lamb stew at the somewhat tacky tourist complex to warm myself up after!

Our last stop of the day, where I had almost dried out was þingvellir National Park where the first national parliament (Alpingi) in the world was created. It first convened in AD930. þingvellir also sits on the mid-Atlantic Ridge where the continental plates of Eurasia and North America are pulling apart creating earthquakes and volcanic activity. This is causing Iceland to grow. Indeed the land in the Almannagja Fissure where the Alþingi met literally sits between the two continental plates.

Take a walk on the ice side was the theme of Day 4. This was a guided glacier hike on the glacial tongue of Solheimajökull off the main icecap at Myrdalsjökull reputedly Iceland´s 4th largest, with the dormant volcano Katla lying underneath. Our guide cheerfully explained that Iceland usually gets an eruption every 2-5 years before quietly adding that there had been none for 5 years so "we´re due one now"! We had an exciting walk up the icefield viewing ice ridges, sculptures, crevasses and cauldrons. It was an "easy" walk for about 3.5hrs but I´d recommend it to anyone needing a good workout! We stopped off at Skoafoss and Seljalandsfoss waterfalls on the way back to the city.

Yesterday afternoon I went Whale Watching out in Reykjavik Bay where we spotted Minke Whales, White-Beaked Dolphins and Harbour Porpoises. As Iceland does still hunt whales, supporting whale watching does help with keeping the whales alive rather than them being eaten. It was an excellent trip despite the sea being rough and the ever present cold wind and drizzle being ever present. We were out at sea for about 3 hours so feeling somewhat chilly, I had a small stopoff at a minute seafood cafe called Sea Baron on arrival in the city. This was almost a greasy spoons version of a seafood cafe but good nonetheless and relatively cheap. Lobstersoup and Grilled Shrimp Kebab were on a special and they were hot!!!

By then the rare sunshine had decided to make an appearance and the relatively warm evening was ideal for a walk round the postmodern City Hall and Tjörn Lake (the pond). The lake is apparently visited by over 40 species of migratory birds and laps at the base of the City Hall. Inside the City Hall is a huge 3D map of Iceland.

Last night I was hoping to go on a Northern Lights viewing trip. Unfortunately the weather put paid to that option and the trip was cancelled. I don´t hold out much hope for tonight either, especially as it is raining again (which is why I am in here typing this and not outside getting wet! )

Today I´ve been for a walk round Laugardalur Park & Sports Grounds and the Botanic Garden, about 10 mins by bus from the city centre. Back in the city I´ve sampled Pylsur (an Icelandic Hot Dog) before writing this. This afternoon I will be checking out the shops (though judging by prices, it´ll be more window shopping than buying!)

Tomorrow I head home, but not before I´ve had a long dip in the Blue Lagoon, a geothermal pool created from wastewater from the nearby Power Plant. Its suppsed to be very therapeutic and great for poor skin conditions.

Well that´s about it for this trip. Before I go you will have noted that I have tried to sample a range of local foods during my stay here. However there are a few tastebud teasers that I´ve decided not to munch on (hope you´ve not just had lunch or about to eat as you´re reading this):

Lundi - Puffin
Grilled Minke Whale Steak - exactly what it says. I´ve seen it on offer in quite a lot of restaurants.
Svið - Singed sheeps head complete with eyes but minus the brain, sawn in two and boiled. It can be eaten fresh or pickled.
Slatur - Mishmash of sheep leftovers tied up in a sheeps stomach
Sursaðir Hrutspungar - Ram´s bits (I´m talking Crown Jewels here!) pickled in whey and pressed into a cake.
Hakarl - Putrefied Shark Meat

Yum!!!! Anyone brave enough to try these is a braver person than I, so drop me a mail if you´re one of those rare beings!

On that note, and until the next globe-trotting adventure,

Bless (as they say in Iceland)

Kath

Ireland 2009

Not so exotic this year, but I'm on my travels again with a little trip across the puddle that they call the Irish Sea, to Ireland.

Almost immediately after arriving in Dublin, I met Tess, one of the c.20 people on the same ten-day trip as myself. She is from Washington State in the US. Quite handy that. At first we had a big bus with the 3-day north, 6-day north and 10-day trips combined before splitting off from the 3-day on the morning of Day 3 and 6-day on the 6th day. While all together we counted 13 different nationalities aboard the bus inc American, Australian, Belgium, Catalonian, Canadian, Dutch, English (myself), French, German, Hong Kong, Irish (the driver), Kiwi and Spanish.

Day 1 and our first stop was St Peters Church in Drogheda where we saw the preserved severed head of St Oliver Plunkett enclosed in a brass & glass case within the church. This was the first Archbishop of Armagh, the very place where we stopped for lunch after a visit to the monastic ruins of Monasterboice and the area of the Battle of the Boyne which is celebrated on the same day as my birthday no less. Long story but William of Orange & the Prostestants defeated James II of England and the Catholics in 1690. We overnighted in Derry / Londonderry with a walking tour around the area of the Bogside etc. Our hostel was on Asylum Rd, opp the RUC station formerly a lunatic asylum!

The following day we headed for the Giants Causeway with a stop to photograph Dunluce Castle (or what remains of it on the cliff edge) near Portballintrae. We chose the Clifftop walk along to The Organ & Amphitheatre Viewpoint before descending the Shepherd's Steps to the actual causeway. There was a short sharp shower while we were out there, but pretty much that has been the only one we really got caught out in. We've been very lucky with the weather and usually when it has rained we've been in the pub, on the bus or in bed!

After lunch in Ballintoy we headed over to the Carrick-a-rede rope bridge which allows you access to an island used by fisherman during the salmon spawning season. The current round the island provides a natural funnelling effect where they can drop their nets. The island affords views across to the Mull of Kintyre in Scotland and Rathlin Island. Overnighted in Belfast.

One of the highlights of this trip must be the Black Cab Tour of Belfast that we did on the morning of Day 3 viewing the murals on the unionish/loyalist side (Shankill Rd), Peace Wall, International Wall, Sinn Fein Office and the Republican murals / Falls Rd. Our driver was stationed in Bridgnorth (where I live for the non-locals amongst you) when he was in the army in the 60's. From there we visited Glenveagh National Park and Castle gardens before returning to Derry for another night.

Day 4 we travlled from Derry in Northern Ireland to Cong in the Republic of Ireland via several interesting stops. The first of these was Grianan Ailligh, a stone fort on Grianan Hill which had been the seat of the O'Neils many moons ago. From there it was onto Drumcliff, where the grave of WB Yates is located. Not a long stop and a bit damp there too. The best stop of the day would have to have been the Seaweed bath in Strandhill nr Sligo. Here in your own private room, there is a bath of freshly pumped hot seawater with freshly cut seaweed in it. The hot seawater causes the seaweed to release its oils and minerals into the bath water. After a short time in a steam room (to open up your pores), you gently climb into the bath and allow the oils and minerals to soak in. Very good for eczema and other skin conditions, relaxing and a detoxifier too apparently. From there is was a quick stop in Knock where an apparition of Mary was seen by 15 credible witnesses at the gable end of its church there.

For anyone reading this who has heard or watched the film "The Quiet Man" staring John Wayne, our fourth night stop was in Cong where this was filmed. There was the Pat Cohen bar that was in the movie, The Quiet Man Hostel, The Quiet Man Restaurant type of thing. Aside from that are very interesting abbey ruins with a monks' fishing house and a dry canal.

Croagh Patrick (Cruach Padraig), the Holy Mountain of Ireland and home to the National Famine Memorial was our first stop of Day 5. Lunch and a reasonably large chunk of the day was visiting Westport before travelling to Galway via the Erriff River & Aasleagh Falls. We got to Galway early which gave us plenty of time to wander around and check out the shops etc before checking out the nightlife later on!!!

Day 6 involved a lot of driving but we also managed quite a few stops. First was Dunguaire Castle near Kinvara which was home to a kindly landlord in his time who helped people in life and continues to help them in death. If you have a (reasonable) question (i.e. not the lottery numbers) then you go to the gate and ask it, walk clockwise round the castle then say thanks at the gate as you leave. Your answer should be revealed by the stroke of midnight.

The Burren is a protected area, a haven for botanists and geologists in particular due to its ecosystem and rocks. This was our first main stop of the day which was followed later by the Cliffs of Moher, a contender in the 7 wonders of the Natural World competition which may still be running online. Other stops included Lisdoonvarna which has an annual matchmaking festival (basically for the local farmers to find themselves a wife) and Adare, before arriving in the tiny little village of Annascaul - home to the South Pole Inn, a pub that belonged to Tom Crean who travelled 3 times to Antarctica both with Scott and Shackleton.

Annascaul is on the Dingle Peninsular which is where we spent our day yesterday. Firstly we followed the Slea Head Drive around the end of the Peninsular visiting the beach where Ryan's Daughter was filmed and Clogher Head Beach where Far & Away was filmed. We then took a 1 hour boat trip into the Dingle bay to spot Fungi the Dolphin, which we did. Fungi appeared 25 years ago, frollicking near fishing boats and in the harbour. He's remained a local resident here ever since and now boosts the local economy by providing an almost 100% guaranteed dolphin sighting (they are so confident that you'll see him that you don't pay for the trip if you don't). We also got chance to catch the end of a Gaelic Football game before heading for Killarney. Along the way we passed "Inch Beach" which is a mile long - we were in the Kingdom of Kerry where a rose is a pretty woman (Rose of Tralee), a dolphin is a mans best friend (see above) and an inch is a mile! For Coldplay fans Inch Beach was featured on their video for Yellow.

So now I'm back in Killarney tonight after we've driven round the Ring of Kerry. Tomorrow we go onto Cork and then the following day we return to Dublin. Somewhere along the route we kiss the blarney stone, so if you think this email gabbles on, wait until you get the next one! ;-)

Until the next time

Globetrotter Kath