Sunday 6 March 2011

Kimberley Walkabout

Originally written 13th June 2010:

Three times the size of the UK, the Kimberley region is one of the remotest parts of Australia - and we were heading there! The journey from Broome to Darwin through the red dirt, open eucalypt forest, savannah woodland, tropical monsoon rainforest, semi-arid desert of the Kimberleys past termite mounds and lumps of spiky spinifex grass was via the unsealed dirt track called "The Gibb River Road" (The Gibb), originally a cattle droving track to move cattle from the stations in the Kimberleys to the port at Derby. It is approx the equivalent of travelling from northern Scotland to northern scandinavia (the Perth to Broome flight was approx like flying from Spain to north Scotland by comparison) - and with added little side trips something in the region of 2000-2500 km! We were told that we were particluarly lucky. Unusually they'd had torrential rain storms which didn't normally happen in "The Dry" which meant that the area was going to be lush green and the waterholes flushed out with fresh water. Most of the waterfalls and streams would be flowing. Also fortunately the rains had stopped which meant The Gibb was open and we'd be able to see all this!

We had a lovely mixed group, approx 50:50 male:female with ages ranging from 20 - late 60's and several nationalities represented - 1 Canadian, 1 French Canadian, 2 French, 3 Dutch, 1 German, 1 Japanese, 2 Americans and 6 Aussies including the driver. We gelled together well which was good considering we were stuck in the middle of nowhere together!

Our first day was Broome to Windjana where we learnt the story of a local outlaw / hero (depending which side you're on) Jandamarra. We saw the Boab Prison Tree (boabs are huge with hollow trunks, many of the bigger ones were used as a jail with this particularly one reputedly being able to hold 12-14 aboriginal prisoners - wouldn't have been a comfy nights sleep I'd imagine) which he was held in overnight, and Tunnel Creek which was his hideout for three years. Tunnel Creek was formed by a creek carving out a tunnel (hence the name) through an uplifted limestone reef. Its big enough to walk through, with some wading (up to waist deep in places) to emerge on the other side to a small swimming hole and gorge. On the cliff face was an example of local aboriginal art - Wandjana Spirit. There were fruit bats in the dark part of the cavern screeching at us as we trudged past. We camped out at Wyndjana Gorge and after a honey & soy vegetable stir-fry, we did some star gazing up at the immense ceiling of stars.

We woke with the sunrise approx 5.45am (maximised daylight hours as it was pitch black by 5.30pm at night) with the first visit of the day to Wyndjana Gorge, a steep walled limestone gorge with devonian fossils. Ibis flew overhead and a flock of white cockatoos squawked at us friom the trees. Then, heading through the Napier Ranges, we were aiming for the King Leopold Ranges and Bell Gorge - a 3km hike each way to a swimming hole at the base of a picturesque waterfall. We spotted a monitor lizard enroute. We had to wade through a river part-way along but it was only ankle deep. It was mostly uphill coming back and I desperately fancied an ice-cold coke, icecream and a shower but I had to content myself with an apple! We camped out on a large layby in a saddle of the King Leopold Ranges, watching controlled bushfires burning in the distance, This was a minimal facility campsite i.e. none - a true bush camp! So if nature called, one was required to find a bush!!! In the middle of nowhere we enjoyed pasta bolognaise for tea and enjoyed the twinking show of stars above us!

Probably some of the best sites we visited were on the third day. Breakfast was bacon & egg sandwiches with the bacon & egg cooked over the campfire. After stopping at the Iminji Roadhouse owned by and adj to one of the local aboriginal communities we had a 20min walk to an absolutely beautiful horse-show shaped gorge surrounded by palms with another swimming hole / waterfall plunge pool where we spent quite some time swimming. It was refreshing to say the least and gave us all a good wash! From there it was onto Manning Gorge Campsite. The 6km return walk involves swimming across a billabong at the beginning and end using polystyrene boxes to float walking boots and rucksacks etc across. It was very hot and the quartzite boulder & rock track was open with little shade. We climbed an escarpment overlooking the valley for miles around. There was bush, bush and more bush. We eventually climbed down into a beautiful gorge with another waterfall and plunge pool / swimming hole. Dinner that night was roast lambs, veggies and jacket potatoes cooked over the campfire. Its amazing what you can cook in the middle of nowhere!!!!

From Manning Gorge we were headed for El Questro through more savannah woodland and open eucalypt forest. After passing the Kalumburu Turn for the remotest part of the Kimberley (Mitchell Plateau & Falls, Drysdale River Station & Bradshaw Aboriginal Paintings which we unfortunately weren't seeing on this trip), we had to cross the infamous Pentecost River. We were warned not to go within 5m of the riverbank (we stpped for piccies) as we might become crocodile dinner. Saltwater Crocs (aka Salties) inhabit this river. Incorrectly named - they should be called Estaurine Crocs as they live in both fresh & salt water, they will take humans for lunch, they're not fussy!

El Questro Gorge was a 2.5km walk each way over very rocky terrain with some scrambling over bounlders through a narrow gorge lined with palms giving plenty of shade. Unfortunately the swimming hole, though refreshing, didn't match up to those we'd visited prior to this on the trip. We stopped overnight at El Questro Station, which had preiovusly been a fully working cattle station (still partly doing it), but had been mostly coverted to a luxury tropical resort. After thai green curry & rice we headed up to the bar to enjoy a few chilled drinks and local entertainment!

Zeberdee Hot Springs was our first stop on Day 5 - a stream with a series of pools fed from a hot spring, only 10-15mins from the campsite and a short walk along a dirt track shaded with palms. After an hour playing in the springs we set off to Emma Gorge 15-20 mins away from that. A 3.2km part-shaded walk predominantly surrounded by lush palms over large boulders and rocks bought us to a large plunge pool at the end of the gorge with steep-sided (50m+) walls surrounding the pool in a semi-circle. The pool was very deep and cold and fed a small stream down the gorge which was choked with rocks and boulders. Most of the water was supplied by a waterfall which was dripping rather than flowing over the walls into the pool. Under the waterfall if was like having ice crystals hitting you on the head, but on the other side of the pool we discovered a small hot spring also feeding into the pool and the water was more pleasant to swim in. Then it was an afternoon driving leaving the Gibb and heading to The Bungles where we arrived after dark to pitch our tents. The drive involved a 50km track through Mabel Downs Cattle Station which was pot-holed and rutted and worse than anything we'd driven over on The Gibb. Burritos with sweet chilli sauce, sour cream, onions, peppers and salad was tea for the evening. The Bungles were only "discovered" in 1982 when the farmer collared a TV crew filming geological features in the area and asked them to see what was on his station...

Day 6 was spent in Purnululu World Heritage Area aka The Bungle Bungles. I did a flight over them when I was here on my working holiday 12 years ago. Since then the area has become world heritage listed. Formed 360mya this ancient sedimentary rock was eventually eroded to form the landscape we see today - domed beehive shaped banded mounds dotted across the landscape. We did several walks through the Bungles including a lookout over the Bungles, Cathedral Groge, a Domes Walk and Echidna Chasm, a lot being trails winding through or round the mounds or through narrow chasms.

We had to come out of The Bungles the same way we'd come in along the 50km bumpy track. There were a lot of people feeling green & queasy by the end of it. This was a long driving day to Lake Argyle though we did have a quick stop in Kununurra, the main township in the East Kimberley. At Lake Argyle we did a boat trip on the lake and saw short-eared rock wallabies, archer fish which would shoot water at a piece of bread held in your fingers. Mostly they were accurate but sometimes they'd miss and shoot you in the eye instead! Also catfish and silver cobblers shoved with the archer fish to get the bread crumbs. On one of the islands in the lake we saw the nests of Whistler Kites and Golden Orb Web Spiders. Lake Argyle is a 80x40km body of water that holds 20x the water volume of Syndey Harbour and if required can hold up to 53x. Built between 1969-1971 it is mainly used for irrigation and hydro-electric. Back at the campsite we enjoyed a sweet chilli stirfry round the campfire after a hot shower!!! The campsite facilities were excellent, some of the best (in terms of showers etc) that I've probably ever seen.

From Lake Argyle it was 1/2hr to the Northern Territory border & putting clocks forward by 1.5hrs before another long drive to Katherine. We had a few stops along the way including Bradshaw Bridge over the Victoria Rover where we spotted a huge saltie on the riverbank, Timber Creek lookout and a couple of roadhouses. Katherine is NT's 3rd largest township and is at the intersection of the Victoria & Stuart Highways (we were on the Victoria, Stuart Highway comes from Alice Springs). We stopped at a permanent campsite between the town and Katherine Gorge where we enjoyed barbequed kangaroo with mashed potato, coleslaw & veg round the campfire. Dessert was a chocolate damper, a bush loaf made of flour, beer & chocolate & cooked in the camp oven on the campfire.

Our last day started with a 2km return trip to a lookout over the 1st of the Katherine Gorges. Although called Katherine Gorge there is in fact 13 separate gorges carved out of the Arnhemland plateau. It is also technically incorrect to call it Katherine Gorge because it has been renamed back to its original aboriginal name of "Nitmiluk" meaning Circada Place. We also had a stop at Edith Falls (correctly called Leliyn) with a 2km return walk over an escarpment to a plunge pool and Adelaide River, home of the now-deceased (but stuffed and stood on the bar of the pub) Charlie The Water Buffalo who starred in Crocodile Dundee. If I recall rightly, last time I was here 12 years ago he was still alive & signing autographs!

Then we arrived in Darwin. After checking into our various hostels, we met at The Jetty for A Steak & Seafood All You Can Eat buffet with the rest of the group before saying our goodbyes.

So we've been (and still are) enjoying a bit of chill out time in Darwin. We've done a Heritage Walk though a lot of the place was either bombed in 1942 or destroyed by Cyclone Tracey Christmas Eve 1974. We had barramundi & chips for tea one night. Yesterday was a free tour of the Parliament House & a walk round the Botanic Gardens before having a free backpacker tea at The Vic, one of the few places to survive the bombing and cyclone! Our final plans include the Wave Pool at the harbour, Darwin Museum and Mindl Beach Sunset Market today. Tomorrow we might go to Crocodylus Cove, home to all things crocodile where you can allegedly swim in a pool next to the croc pool or go down in a cage in the croc pool itself. Maybe not eh...?

Back Down Under...‏

Originally written Monday 31st May 2010:

We arrived in Perth just after midnight last Tuesday morning which meant that once we'd got back to Andy's friend's house in Duncraig, a suburb in the northen part of Perth, and had a Welcome to Aus beer we could head straight off to bed!!!

Suffice to say our first day was not an early start but after sleeping like a log we headed into Perth City Centre which had changed dramatically - as had the prices of everything! A beer in a pub now costs on average 6 pounds sterling each. Long gone are the days of the $2 schooner (which was less than 1 pound back then). Most people buy from the bottleshop (off-license).

We had been hoping to go swimming with the bottlenose dolphins at Rockingham during our time in Perth but disappointingly there were no dolphin swimming trips running during the duration of our stay. Last time I was here I'd been hoping to do that but didn't have the extra day I needed. Looks like we'll have to come here again ;-)

Otherwise the first day was pretty quiet. We met Andy's friend John after work and went for a beer with him before heading back to his place to spend the evening with himself, his wife Vikki and daughter Milly for pizza and beer.

Day 2 saw us visit Hilary's Marina, a shopping complex and tourist attraction with lots of sporting, sea-related and souvenir shops. We enjoyed breakfast at a little cafe in the sunshine. It was probably the warmest day in Perth as the temperature never really exceeded 20'c and being as it is their winter went dark & cold early, but not really any different to much of the weather we had at home in May. Anyway back to breakfast: crepes with icecream, strawberries & bananas. Yum! We spent most of the day strolling down the harbour breakers and along the beach but eventually took the bus back to the City Centre to arrange an alternative trip to do instead of the dolphins. We checked out a few other Perth landmarks before heading back for home-made Shepherds Pie - and beer!

The third day we were treated to some Perth winter weather and had heavy showers all day. Undaunted we headed off on the train to Perth's port - Fremantle, known as Freo to the locals - for a look around and to meet up with some friends. Despite the weather we enjoyed a delicious Shark & Chips (yes as in Jaws) at the Sweetlips Cafe in the Fishing Boat Harbour. Unfortunately the History Museum (still in brochures and the Lonely Planet) was now gone and the markets were closed. Despite that we wandered down Cappacino Strip and around the town. We sampled a glass of Pale Ale from the popular Little Creatures Pub which has its own micro-brewery. Later we met up with Jim & Tash at Mad Monks Bar, another pub & restaurant with its own micro-brewery. We first met Jim & Tash in Egypt in 2007 and it was good to catch up with them again. They took us out to dinner at the "Norfolk Pub" where Andy had a good steak burger and I enjoyed a smoked salmon pasta dish.

Our final day in Perth started with a stroll round Kings Park - a city nature reserve with a lot of original native bush still surviving. We are both sure its been developed a great deal since our last visits but must check the photos! ;-) From there we caught a tour bus which took us out to the Swan Valley. Caversham Nature Park was our first stop where we got up close and personal with several native animals including laughing kookaburra, red kangaroo, western grey kangaroo, wombat, blue-winged kookaburra, dingos, echidna, potaroos, koala and Tasmanian Deveil. They also held a farmshow demonstrating sheep shearing Aussie style, swinging the billy, whip cracking and the like. The Swan Valley arm of the Margaret River Chocolate Factory was next. Though the stop was brief it did allow an indulgence in a little chocolate tasting. Margaret River Chocolate is re-refined Belguim chocolate. Our final visit was to the Sandleford Winery for some wine tasting. Here we managed to arrange a very short & sweet meet-up with Rod & his girlfriend Cathy. Rod & I were part of a group that travelled together in Canada in 2005. Dinner that night was from the Carilion Food Hall - a number of food companies have stalls around and share the seating area including Red Rosster (Aus version of KFC), Hungry Jacks (Aus version of Burger King), fish & chips, carveries, chinese, thai, mexican etc.

An early start the next morning for our flight to Broome. Proving that I still have a dynamite character, I was checked for explosives at the airport!!! Once in Broome a courtesy shuttle dropped us at the "Beaches of Broome" backpacker hostel and after checking in we wandered down to Cable Beach which is all of 10 mins away from here! Along the way we spotted a black-headed ibis, magpie larks and wedge-tailed eagles.

At 5-ish we joined the throng that was catching the bus to Town Beach for the phenomen known as "Staircase To The Moon". Given the correct weather conditions and tide levels etc this can happen up to three times a month between about March & October. The Staircase is an illusion created as the full moon rises over the mudflats of Town Beach in Rowbuck Bay at low tide giving the appearance of a staircase to the moon. Did exactly what it said on the tin! Was phenomenal! Before jumping on the bus back, we wandered round the Town Beach market which appears on the Staircase to the Moon nights with its food stalls, jewellery, nicknacks etc.

Yesterday we did some Broome sightseeing. I can only describe Broome as what I thought every Aussie town would be like before I actually came here. Its very close to nature and the outback here with boabab and eucalypts lining the streets. Town Beach by day was our first stop. Apparently the bay is littered with flying boat wrecks which were distroyed by the Japanese Air Strikes in 1942 and on shore is the Pioneer Cemetary. Jutting into the sea is the remains of the old jetty. We learnt more about this at the Broome History Museum which covered the local history of the area particularly the pearling history of the area as well as shell collections, geology, white fella artifacts, information on the aboriginal tribes of the area.

We washed our history lesson down with a sample of Ginger Beer made by the Broome micro-brewery Matso's. In addition to Ginger Beer, this brewery makes chilli beer and mango beer amongst its collection. The ginger beer came chilled with ice. Was delicious & very refreshing :-)

Pearl Luggers is a shop that also offers trips to a pearl farm & its own local talk/tour. However within the grounds of the shop are two dry-docked pearl luggers (boats) which are free to walk around. Displays provide further information on the boats, their crews and more history of the pearling industry.

Then it was back to Cable Beach for a 1hr Sunset Camel Trek. Seeing Cable Beach from atop a slow-moving dromedary is an interesting and enjoyable experience (though there is some saddle soreness by the end of it! ;-)). We were paired up to ride the camels. We have both previously ridden a camel in Egypt but had our own camels. Here we "shared" a camel called "Lazy Daisy". Mr Daisy, for it was an 18-year old boy camel, actually got the name from his racing days - as a racing camel in his youth he won many trophies. The sunset was gorgeous with fiery reds, oranges and yellows piercing the sky across the sea whilst other colours were brush stroked across the sky above us as it slowly turned dark and the horizon crimson.

We left the beach once the sun had completely gone down. Twilight here is very short or non-existent and once the sun has gone it quickly goes dark. We had dinner at the hostel - a seafood basket for me with fish, prawns, crab, squid and chips - washed down with WA-brewed Swan Draught Lager. Fortunately the hostel food is relatively cheap, as are the beers (similar to British prices).

Today we went out to Gantheaume (Gan - the - am) Point 5km south of Cable Beach where cliffs have been eroded into all sorts of curious shapes and show beautiful layering of reds, yellows, oranges, blakcs, whites and greys. I would imagaine that it would be particularly stunning at sunset, but with only one (very early) bus to the point each day, we had to see the early morning sun on it. This is also home to 120million year old dinosaur tracks - there are concrete casts on the cliff top as the real ones are usually only revealed when there's a low tide - and Anatasia's Pool, an enlarged pool built by the first resident of the old Lighthouse Keepers Cottage after the lighthouse was automated and the cottage sold off. The resident's wife suffered with arthritis and bathed in the pool to ease her joints.

In between some dips in the sea, we walked the 5km beach walk back to Cable Beach before heading to the hostel for lunch and a cold refreshing dip in the pool. We did wander back down to the beach when it got cooler to see another gorgeous sunset.

Today we are off into town for a wander round. Tonight we have to get packed up and have an early night as we have a 6:30am pick-up for our trip to the Kimberleys.