The ‘teardrop’ in the Indian Ocean, the ‘Pearl in the Necklace of India’, Sri Lanka is only 30km from India and a few hundred km north of the Equator. At 435km long and 244km wide, this 66sq km island is one of the planet’s biodiversity hotspots as well as being an island full of culture and history.
Negombo was an interesting little town, our first encounter with Sri Lanka. We wandered around the various markets and street stalls before finding ourselves on the locals beach behind their houses where sadly plastic bags and plastic bottles are strew everywhere, a far cry from the section of beach by our hotel which was virtually immaculate. The following day, which was the first day proper of our tour, we saw the ‘touristy’ stuff. Once a Portuguese and Dutch trading port, the attractions include the Old Dutch Fort, the Dutch Canal, churches and the fish market. Negombo’s lagoon as well as sea trawler fishing boats supplies the market with fresh fish which are auctioned off there. Our group comprises a GP, PA and Electrician from London, a nurse from Bath, 2 travel agents from Australia (Sydney and Gladstone) and an Insurance Broker from Toronto. Brits 6, Aus. 2, Can 1!
The main afternoon attraction of the day was a 5 hour game drive in Willpattu National Park. Sri Lanka’s largest national park yielded quite a selection of animals including Kingfishers, Serpent Eagles, Hornbills, Asian Elephant, egrets, grey monkeys, crocodiles, ducks, cormorant, peacocks, black-headed ibis, chameleons, monitor lizards, plovers, stilts, white-spotted deer, jackals and rabbits, but no sign of any leopards disappointingly. This was in lieu of the later trip due to be taken to Yala National Park on the itinerary – weather conditions mean that the park is closed.
Anuradhapura is a 4th century BC monastic complex of both archaeological and architectural ‘wonders’ that is still used for religious purposes. It was the first ancient capital of Sri Lanka and is also home to the ‘Sri Maha Bodhi’, a sapling taken from the tree under which Buddha had his enlightenment. There are a lot of dagobas (shrines) including the ‘Jetavanarama Dagoba’. It was originally believed to have been 120m high and thought to have been the third highest monument in world when it was built (beaten by the two Egyptian pyramids). Now with damage / natural disasters it is partly destroyed and only 70m of it remains.
Polonnaruwa was a thriving commercial and religious centre 800 years ago. This archaeological site of tombs, temples, statues and stupas was Sri Lanka’s second ancient capital. It has the Galpota (Stone Book). This is believed to be the world’s largest stone representation of a book. The stone inscription (longest in Sri Lanka) extols the virtues of the then King, Nissanka Malla. The slab, weighing 25 tonnes, was dragged from Mihintale 100km away (so it says on the inscription anyway). For both Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa we hired bikes to cycle round the sites.
Sigiriya (Lion Rock) is a rocky outcrop that rises 200m above the plains below. Originally on the flat topped summit there was a monastery. This was usurped by a King and developed into a pleasure palace-cum-fortress. A later king then returned this to the monks. This archaeological site can only be visited by climbing 1,300 steps to reach the summit. Part-way up the rock there is an open air spiral stairway from the main path leading to a long sheltered gallery in the rock face. There is a series of painting or frescos of women believed to be of celestial nymphs or concubines of King Kassapa (who built the fortress). Half way up was a large platform on which a pair of Lion’s paws was encountered. It is believed that this is part of the original entrance which included an entire Lion’s Head. Visitors had to pass through the mouth to gain access. It is from this that the rock derived its name. Sigiriya Gardens are amongst the oldest surviving historic gardens in Asia. At the foot of the rock are the terrace gardens and the two great stairways leading to the main entrance. Below the terraced gardens and merging with them are the boulder gardens. Stretching out from them are the three distinct units of the water garden.
So far the visit has also included two visits to local villages for lunches. Today’s visit also included demonstrations on turning rice paddy into rice; grounding millet into flour and how to make a coconut sambol (shredded coconut mixed with a curry/salt/pepper mix) from scratch from getting the husk off the coconut to the finished product.
That’s the main activities though we have seen a lot more other things. The next few days are likely to be more action packed so look out for the next instalment.
Ayubowen,
Kath
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