Saturday 27 April 2019

Discover The Baltics: Tallinn to Tartu, then onwards to Riga (Latvia)

 

Yesterday morning, we left Tallinn and headed to Tartu. After a 1-hour drive, we arrived at Lahemaa National Park, where we had a tour of an old manor house at Palmse and old fishermen's huts in Altja. Here I also dipped my toes into the Baltic Sea, which was rather like dipping your toes into an ice bath.

Lunch was at a cafeteria and consisted of chicken schnitzel, roast potatoes and coleslaw, followed by a magnum caramel ice cream. Despite the name (and the temperature of the sea), they were having unseasonably warm weather.

Another two-hour drive bought us to Tartu, Estonia's second-largest city. On arrival, we were taken on a guided walking tour. Starting at Victory Bridge, we were taken round various key highlights of the town. These included the bronze pig at the Market Hall, the Leaning House (so-called because well it was leaning), the Town Hall Square with it's 'Kissing Students' Statue' then past the University of Tartu up to Toome Hill. Toome Hill had several points of interest. It is the site of the Old Observatory (Tartu Meridian), the Old Maternity Hospital, the Angel & Devil's Bridges and a ruin of a Cathedral as well as several monuments. Most interesting of all was standing on the roof of the Gunpowder Cellar, now in the Guinness Book of Records as the highest single storey pub in the world. So, naturally, one couldn't turn down the opportunity to actually go into the said pub to sample food and a tiny beer. The beer in question was 'Red House Beer' which was sweet but strong. I had salmon chowder in a bread bowl accompanied by their take on garlic bread.

There ended our taster of Estonia. Today, we crossed the border in Latvia around 10am at Valga/Valka on our way to Riga.

Our first stop was the old town of Cesis situated on the Gauja River. Our walk round the town included the hunched monk and the KGB Office. Tradition has it that you should rub the hunched monk's lantern to see the future and rub the knob of his walking stick for good luck. Well, when in Cesis! Then, we had a very good tour of a medieval castle, known as The Fortress of Livonia, a partly preserved fortification which had been knocked down and rebuilt in various forms.

After lunch in another cafeteria of salmon, mash and veg, we were taken on a guided walk of Gauja National Park and visited Turaida Castle. There was a monument to the 'Rose of Turaida' (Latvia's equivalent of Romeo and Juliet) and a garden of folk song. We also visited the lucky Gutmanis Cave, where reputedly bathing in the spring brings long life – I dipped my feet in for luck. Besides, they were hot in my boots and the spring waters were cooling.

Finally, it was onto Riga and in the evening we had dinner at 'Savour'. I opted for the traditional lightly salted herring with potatoes and cream cheese, whereas Andy tried the traditional sausage with sauerkraut and potatoes.

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